Pampering Minus the Harsh Chemicals
by Sarah Tarver-Wahlquist
When clients walk into New York City’s Swing Salon, they may be surprised by what they don’t smell—the range of chemicals usually wafting around in hair salons. That’s because the owners have decided to use only natural and organic products.
While many people assume that all salon hair and body treatments are regulated and safe, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has no authority to require companies to test cosmetic products for safety due to loopholes in the Toxic Substances Control Act. So, people are being exposed to dangerous toxins through salon products like nail polish, hair color processors and hair straighteners.
Be aware that while labels of over-the-counter body care products are required by law to list ingredients, with the exception of the chemical soup often hidden under the term “fragrance”, the loophole for salon products is large. Jamie Silberberger, with the Women’s Voices for the Earth’s National Healthy Nail & Beauty Salon Alliance, reports, “Products sold for professional use in spas and salons are not required to be labeled with ingredients.”
Fortunately, healthy alternatives are available either by patronizing a green salon or using natural beauty treatments at home.
One salon treatment—Brazilian Blowout hair straightening—can continue to expose customers and salon workers to toxic fumes even months after application. It’s among the conventional straightening products that contain formaldehyde, a known human carcinogen.
“Exposure to formaldehyde doesn’t end with the treatment—the fumes are reactivated every time heat is applied to the hair,” says Jennifer Arce, a San Diego, California, salon worker who became sick after applying a single Brazilian Blowout treatment. “So, when a client who’s had a Brazilian Blowout done elsewhere comes into the salon to get a haircut or color and has her hair blow-dried, flat-ironed, curled or processed under the hood dryer, the fumes that come out of her hair make me and several of my coworkers sick all over again.”
Solution: Avoid chemical hair-straightening treatments. Sign on to the Women’s Voice for the Earth letter campaign petitioning the FDA to remove Brazilian Blowout from U.S. shelves by visiting Tinyurl.com/BanBrazilianBlowout.
Hair Dyes and Extensions
About two-thirds of conventional hair dyes in the U.S. contain para-phenylenediamine (PPD), a chemical banned for use in such products in Germany, France and Sweden. Exposure to PPD can cause allergic reactions ranging from skin irritation to death by anaphylactic shock, as happened to a teen in 2010.
When Spain’s University of Santiago de Compostela researchers conducted a metastudy examining the risk of cancer among hairdressers and related workers, all reported that employees had a higher risk of cancer than the general population.
Hair extensions also warrant attention. Many adhesives used on extensions may contain 1,4 dioxane, listed as a probable carcinogen by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), and styrene, a neurotoxin and suspected endocrine disruptor.
Solution: Look for a clean, green salon that uses natural hair color treatments free from synthetic chemicals, ammonia or PPD. Individuals can also order nontoxic organic color kits direct from EcoColors.net.
When getting a manicure or pedicure, beware of the toxic trio of dibutyl phthalate, formaldehyde and toluene. Used to help nail products hold color, they’re linked to reproductive and development problems, plus dizziness and eye and lung irritation, according to the Environmental Working Group (EWG).
Facing pressure from consumer groups and salon workers, some polish companies are now producing so-called “nontoxic” nail polish, although their labels aren’t verifiable. California’s Department of Toxic Substances Control recently tested 25 nail polishes sold to salons, 12 of which claimed to be free of the toxic trio of ingredients. The researchers found toluene in 10 and one or more of the three ingredients in five out of seven.
Solution: Bring your own safe nail polish and only patronize well-ventilated salons.
Find a Green Salon
Many conventional body products like shampoos and massage oils, can contain a litany of ingredients that add to one’s chemical exposure. Ask questions to ensure all of a salon’s products are nontoxic or as low in toxicity as possible.
For example, a large network of independently owned “concept salons” across America are connected with the Aveda Corporation (Aveda.com), a national leader in developing hair and body products free from the most dangerous ingredients. More than 90 percent of Aveda’s essential oils and 89 percent of its raw herbal ingredients are certified organic.
Also look for members of the Green Spa Network, a nationwide coalition of like-minded spas that pledge to be energy efficient and sustainable in all their practices (GreenSpaNetwork.org).
If a green salon hasn’t yet arrived locally, bring nontoxic products for appointments and ask the stylist to use them. Visit the Skin Deep Database at ewg.org/skindeep to find least-toxic products for at-home use.
Sarah Tarver-Wahlquist is a freelance writer in Tucson, Arizona.
More Naturally Safe Sources
Bloom Organics, BloomOrganics.com
Eve’s Organics, EveOrganicsBeauty.com
Max Green Alchemy, MaxGreenAlchemy.com
Natural Salons and Spas in Central Ohio
This is a sampling of some local businesses that strive to incorporate organic, natural, or chemical-free products or services into their offerings.
The Natural Nail Spa (Columbus – Polaris)
Specialties: Manicures and pedicures free of harsh chemicals; waxing; makeup; facials
Love Yourself and Earth Salon and Day Spa (Granville)
Specialties: Plant-based products for haircuts; colorings using ammonia-free, formaldehyde-free and vegan hair color; manicures; pedicures; waxing; facials; massage
Balance Beauty Spa (Worthington)
Specialties: Facials using organic skincare products; manicures and pedicures with soy-based, acetone-free polish remover and vitamin-infused gel polishes; soy-based waxing; sugaring; eyebrow and eyelash tinting
Virtue Salon (Columbus – Clintonville)
Specialties: All products are completely free from animal by-products or testing; haircuts and colorings; bridal hair and makeup
Replenish: The Spa Co-Op (Columbus – Downtown)
Specialties: Organic products for care of hands and feet, waxing and spray tanning; customized massage sessions; yoga sessions; reflexology; facials
Open Sky Day Spa (Grandview Heights)
Specialties: Ten different types of massage; facials; waxing; eyebrow and eyelash tinting
Canvas Salon & Skin Bar (Powell)
Specialties: Uses natural products for haircuts and coloring; blowouts; waxing; facials; makeup; bridal hair and makeup
Lennonheads Salon Spa (Worthington)
Specialties: Uses plant-based products for haircuts and coloring; waxing; manicures; pedicures; facials; massage
Mukha Custom Cosmetics & Medi-Spa (Columbus – Short North)
Specialties: Color and skin care line that is 100 percent mineral-based, free of oil, alcohol, fragrance and talc; makeup; soy-based hair removal; eyebrow and eyelash tinting; facials; massage; spray tanning
Aveda-affiliated salons and schools (multiple Central Ohio locations)
Specialties: Industry-leading provider of naturally derived products (defined as more than 50 percent of the molecule is obtained from a plant, non-petroleum mineral, water, or other such natural source); services vary by location, but generally include haircuts and colorings, plus a full list of traditional salon/spa offerings